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Misfit: Hella Jongerius

05-11-2011 The only up-to-date monograph on the work of Dutch product designer Hella Jongerius. Written by three experts on product design; Louise Shouwenberg, Paola Antonelli and Alice Rawsthorn. Includes over ...

Ovale collection - Bouroullec brothers for Alessi

09-11-2010   "The Ovale collection strives to be original, but it also wants to be rustic and traditional. We set out in pursuit of delicate expression. This composition speaks about every day life, about ...

Knoll: Brian Lutz with a foreword by Reed Kroloff

09-11-2010 The history of Knoll is the history of modern design. Founded in 1938 by Hans Knoll and joined by his wife, Florence Knoll, the company is credited for bringing European modern design to America, then...

Marcel Wanders: behind the ceiling

08-29-2010 The comprehensive monograph on one of the most celebrated bodies of design in recent decades.  Inspired and distilled from Brazil’s street and carnival cultures, Humberto and Fernando Campana hav...

Aquariva by Marc Newson

06-01-2010 Australian designer Marc Newson has designed a speed boat in collaboration with Officina Italiana Design for Italian boat brand Riva.  Called Aquariva by Marc Newson, the design is a reinterpretati...

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Louise Schouwenberg
Misfit: Hella Jongerius - Read on Amazon >

article thumbnailThe only up-to-date monograph on the work of Dutch product designer Hella Jongerius. Written by three experts on product design; Louise Shouwenberg, Paola Antonelli and Alice Rawsthorn. Includes over...

Brian Lutz
Knoll: Brian Lutz with a foreword by Reed Kroloff - Read on Amazon >

article thumbnailThe history of Knoll is the history of modern design. Founded in 1938 by Hans Knoll and joined by his wife, Florence Knoll, the company is credited for bringing European modern design to America,...

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

The latest menswear collection by fashion designer Sruli Recht of Iceland features leather made from dolphin skin, fabric woven from horse hair and silk extracted from a spider’s gland implanted in a goat.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Most of the garments are made from one pattern piece and cut from a single piece of fabric.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Accessories include glass slippers, a tinted plastic visor and a white saddle, plus a sniper rifle and knife carved in maple, sun-bleached and rubbed with horse hide.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Boots are made of the calloused skin over the spines of horses.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Called Field Dressing, the collection was unveiled in Paris last week.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Previous collections by Recht include coats made of blackbirds and stillborn lambs, concrete accessories and parchment gas masks. See all our stories about his work here.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Here’s some information and a poem by Sruli Recht:


FIELD DRESSING SRULI RECHT A/W 2012 Where the darkness divides

STORY – This is the third complete menswear line from Sruli Recht. “This collection was lost out on the hunt, chasing the goal to no end.” The collection in three words – tailored, pulsing, visceral.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

MATERIALS

This season employs a global selection of wool, waxed cottons, leathers and silks, glass, timber and steel, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

All the buttons are made from metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio, and blackened.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Feature materials designed or made by the studio this season:

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Horsetail-hair Satin

Ásthildur Magnúsdóttir, a woman of iron will and a brain in each finger, wove 3cm a day in the dead darkness of an epic Icelandic winter. Made from the waste products of the horse farms and slaughterhouses, Ásthildur developed for us a hand-loomed satin from single strands of horsetail hairs

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Cetacea Leather

And in those nets and on those beaches, leaving the water, the cold air it breaches.

Made by the man in the north, from bodies washed ashore, the Atlantic White-Sided Dolphin skin is nearly un-tannable, as the skin has structure more like an eye.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Spider-Silk Knit

We held down a spider, strapped its legs to a board, and reeled out its silk, for our silk spun hoard.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Our knit originates from the silk gland of a spider, carefully placed in the milk duct of a goat. The single filament is reeled out of the goat millimetres at a time to produce the most difficult to obtain fibre in the world. Having secured 2 skeins of the silk, each many thousands of metres long, we spent 4 days unravelling it to prepare for knitting.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

A further week was spent gently coaxing two filaments into the knotted web of these garments… And then another week convincing it to become the emperor’s new clothing. Weight for weight, silk is stronger than steel and tougher than Kevlar.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Icelandic Wool

With a local knitting house, we designed two new knits for this season:

A Felt – Felted 100% Icelandic wool from a structured waffle knit base.

And a Knit – Knitted and brushed 50% Icelandic wool and 50% cotton knit in a tight tuck stitch.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

The wool of The Icelandic sheep – Íslenska sauðkindin [a patched history]

Pure descendants of the same stock as the Norwegian Spelsau, brought to Iceland by the Vikings prior to 900 Anno Domine, Icelandic sheep have been bred unmixed for one thousand, one hundred years in a bitter, harsh environment. The baron moss-fields of Iceland yield rare game and consequently they are efficient herbivores.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Icelandic skins come in many colours and generally are not dyed. The hide is quite soft and are on average 6 square feet (0.56 m2) to 8 square feet (0.74 m2) in size. Often left unshorn for the winter, the wool length can be up to 8 inches (200 mm) in length.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Icelandic fleece is dual-coated, and this wool is made up of two types of fibres: coarse and fine. The long outer coat is called Tog and the fine inner coat called Thel. Tog is generally classified as a medium wool around 27 micrometres in diameter. This wool is good for weaving and for use in other durable products and it is long, glossy, tough, and water resistant.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

Thel, being the finer wool and classified as such, is generally around 20 micrometres in diameter. This finer wool is used for garments that touch the skin as it tends to be softer and more insulating, providing a high resistance to cold and possessing a unique texture and natural colours.

Field Dressing by Sruli Recht

GARMENTS

The Field Dressing collection for Autumn and Winter 2012/13 consists of 35 total looks – from tuxedo to tracksuit, coats, tailored jackets and cardigans, to

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